This clutch installation article is aimed for the 4AFE and 7AFE engines (Celica ST).  The 5SFE (Celica GT) and FWD cars that have the 3SGTE swapped in can use this article as a good guideline.  When it comes to changing the clutch for the 5SFE or the 3S-GTE, the only difference is the location of the starter.  Everything else is very similar.  When it comes to changing the clutch, there are five main things we need to remove:

1. Drive axles (or drive shafts)
2. Starter
3. Engine Mount
4. Crossmembers
5. and the transmission itself

Stuff you'll need:

1. Breaker bar
2. Gunk Liquid wrench
3. Long sockets for your 3/8 ratchet (17-28mm!) or for the breaker bar.
4. Bucket/Pan for transmission gear oil.
5. Thick Flat screwdriver
6. Phillip screwdriver
7. A labeled tray for all the nuts and bolts
8. The Best Hi-Temp Grease you could find.
9. 4 bottles of APL GL-5 (75 W90) Gear Oil.  Well...as long as it's 75 W90.
10. Two spare hydrolic jacks OR 1 ton transmission jack (highly recommended)
11. An extra hydrolic jack and rope (requires strut tower bar) to support engine OR Engine Hoist (highly recommended)
12. clutch disc
13. clutch cover
14. clutch alignment tool
15. throw bearing
16. 2 cans of a good Engine cleaner
17. 3 cans of Brake cleaner of a reputable brand (prefferably CRC).
18. 250 Grit/500 Grit Sandpaper (in case flywheel cannot be resurfaced from a reputable machine shop)
19. Oil funnel with 2 ft flexible extension.
20. 2 Cotter pins (will be illustrated later in this article)
21. 2 Hitch pins to replace the shift control arms (just in case).  This will be illustrated later in the article.
22. A partner (required if you don't have a transmission jack like the one below)

So yes...if you can, please try to get this.  It will definitely make your clutch install 10 times more fun.

Figure 1 (courtesy of harborfrieght.com)

And so we begin by showing you some shots of the clutch we're going to install. 

Figure 2 (this is a stage 1 clutch.  It's a bit better than OEM but not completely performance)

Figure 3 (clutch cover)

Figure 4 (alignment tool and throw bearing)

Now that we're done looking at the clutch goodies.  Let's get back to work.  The first thing we need to do is disconnect the battery and remove the air intake pipes.  If you have a short ram intake like the one below.  There will be less work.  For everyone else, expect to deal with the cumbersome air box.  On another note on Figure 5, you'll see that the bigger oval/circle is a bolt attached to some hydrolic line.  That hydrolic line is responsible for engaging your clutch.  Remove it?  Yes.

Figure 5

Detach the fuse box from the battery for more room.

Figure 6

Remove this bolt and the hydrolic line if you haven't already.

Figure 7

Unbolt the transmission sensor from the transaxle (the formal name for transmission)

Figure 8

There are things that can be removed from the top of the transaxle so if you know what you're doing, go ahead and remove the simple stuff.  Otherwise, consider yourself new to this and you can go through the rest of this artcle and follow the intructions step-by-step.

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